High on the Hog: How African American Cuisine Transformed America, is a very informative docuseries that breaks down the origins of African American cuisine. Food writer Stephan Satterfield produced the documentary that aired on Netflix May 26, 2021. Season 1 has 4 episodes which starts in Africa and concludes in Texas. Stephan Satterfield began his journey in Benin, West Africa. Mr. Satterfield wanted to start at the roots from which it all began. Dr. Jessica B. Harris accompanied him as they visited Dantoka Market, one of the largest open-air markets in Western Africa. Saturday was the best day to visit the market because of the variety of vendors and food stands. Made mention that Okra was originated in Africa. Soupy stew (in French its gumbo) was a big treat that was made using okra. They also discussed different myths about foods, and one was yams vs sweet potatoes. Yams were famous in Africa and sweet potatoes was not because they didn’t grow in North America because of the temperature. Mr. Satterfield and Dr. J enjoyed eating black-eye peas, watermelon, and rice. Mr. Satterfield continued to speak on how he wanted to go back to the roots of African foods. Jollof rice allowed wealth to grow because rice was the foundation. They then stopped at Taste of Bennin to discover their food of the African diaspora. As they wait for their food, they talked about the Transatlantic slave trade. No utensils were offer to the slaves, so they ate with there hands. That is were that came from. They were served chicken, lamb, shrimp with peanut sauce. Next visit was Abomey Benin, a kingdom that had an all-female regiment of big warriors and was a force that colonial powers reckoned with for many centuries. This was the biggest kingdom of the slave trade. Ganvie Bennin was known to be mythical. This town was known for voodoo worshippers. Priest had voodoo powers. The people of the town were called the water people. You had to have a boat to live there. Each family had 3 boats. The main dish was fried fish, rice, beans, and tomatoes. This episode ended in Ouidah, Benin. They paid homage to the dead slaves. Very emotional for Mr. Satterfield. Episode 2 took place in Charlestown, South Caroline (Sullivans Island). Mr. Satterfield was with Chef BJ Dennis. They began to talk about 40 to 60 percent of slaves came through Charleston. Charleston was the capital of national slave trade. South Carolina had rice plantations, 100 pounds of rice. Chef Michael Twitty comes along and talks about African food in South Carolina. One pot meal was introduced; it’s filled with okra, rice crab meat and hot peppers. They showed how they would taste the food from the back of there hand. Tasting from the cooking spoon was an absolutely NO. The dish was called Okra soup. He made a visit to Carolina Gold. When slavery ended it was felt by the economy because the rice began to disappear after the civil war. Mullet fish was being prepared to eat. The Gullah diva, Ms. Salley talked about how the hog was a big deal as she prepared a shrimp, fish, crabs, field peas and pig feet meal. Lastly Mr. Satterfield talked to Gabriella Eitienne. She enjoyed picking collard seeds to make collard greens. Her family had a huge garden, and they would feed the community. Unfortunately, the Department of Transportation took over the land by building a highway taking away the family land and garden. Episode 3 starts with the language of Hercules. Hercules was then a slaved African American chef for President George Washington. Mr. Satterfield met with Chef Adrian Miller in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Pennsylvania was the first state to outlaw slavery. In the state of Pennsylvania law states after being there for 6 months slaves are automatically free. He also talked about Thomas Jefferson chef James Henning. His legacy is still being carried on in California. The 2 chefs that recreated the chef’s legacy was Brian Dunsmoor and Martin Draluck. The wanted to recreate the chefs’ cooking techniques. They’re cooking style was called hearth cooking. The meals that Brian and Martin prepared were meals from the 2 enslaved chefs Herring and Hercules. The meal prepared was veal cutlet, crabmeat, and veal sweetbread. Braised rabbits, madeira, grits. The chefs cooked on a stoned stoves like back in the day. For desert snow egg ice cream custard. The final dish was macaroni pie. Next, Mr. Satterfield traveled to New York where he talked to Chef Omar Tate. Chef Omar was known as the oyster king. He then went to the restaurant Mother Shuckers to eat oysters. Next it was Lauren Monroe who was a descendant of the Dutrieuille Family. The Dutrieuille was known for West Indies food, rice, and meat. Finally, episode 4 which ends in Texas. This episode starts off with a parade in Galveston, Texas with a celebration of The Emancipation Proclamation. Mr. Satterfield began with Jerrelle Guy who introduced him to her raspberry cheesecake. Next, he met up with Anthony Bruno. Anthony Bruno was an African American cowboy that is associated with a group called the Northern Star Trail blazers. They began to discuss the history of black cowboys. As they talked about the cowboy history the chef began to make his cowboy stew, that he called Son of a Gun. The stew was made with kidney, marrow gut, heart sweetbread (organs from the cow). He added vegetables and seasoning to the pot as well. Now to Huntsville, Houston where he got to enjoy some BBQ that was prepared at a Baptist church by Pastor Clinton Edison. He prepared brisket and beans with his sauce that he makes himself. The food is cooked on a foot tub with a refrigerator rack over it and then he began to grill the meat. Next to Gatlin BBQ in Houston Texas. Chef Adrian Miller and Chef Greg Gatlin prepared beef brisket, ribs, chicken with hot sauce. Mr. Satterfield then took a visit to the Black Cowboy Muesum with Chef Larry Gallies. After the museum tour the chef prepared chili with beans and meat. Mr. Satterfield final visit was with Chef Chris Williams at Lucille Restaurant. Chef Chris talked about his great grandmother who was the founder and wrote the curriculum of the first commercial culinary education program in the country. She created her cookbook called Lucille’s Treasure Chest, 1941. The chef prepared African American food, jubilee dinner that consist of oysters, clams, Carolina gold rice, grits, eggs, caviar, lamb and bulgar salad. A very elegant meal that was enjoyed by many in the restaurant. As Mr. Satterfield ends his food tour, he says that he was never disappointed by any of the meals that was prepared for him to eat. He enjoyed listening to the history and the culture from each person that he spoke with.
After watching this docuseries, I see food differently. I now want to experience and taste different types of foods. I enjoyed the history listens that was given while they ate. The different sceneries were so educational to me. The scenes with the stories behind it allowed you to get a better understanding of the past and present. I encourage everyone to watch it. I will be watching season 2.
Ouu! I loved this. It was interesting seeing the connections in the food and how it was all pieced together. I believe your review really brought the essence of the series. Often we miss the history behind food and its true connections. I’m glad this series brought that to the surface.
Well well, I do like okra and black-eyed peas. Until I took this class I had no idea those foods had African roots. Our culture learned even in slavery to make scraps taste good, so its no wonder that there is Afro ancestry in some of our favorite foods. My mom used to make the best chitterlings on the planet. I miss that today. I love it that our ancestors live through us, in our food, in our dance, and in our hearts.
Oh wow do we love the food! Interesting read here about the one thing that brings up together and that is good food! I never had okra until about 2 years ago and when I did it was awesome. My 80 year old uncle from NC introduced okra to me and the rest is history. I love what our culture has done with food and what we have kept as traditions from our African ancestors. This blog has peaked my ears, eyes and stomach and I love it! Thanks...